Trim tab Control Horns

These go on the ends of the Trim Tabs.

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Cleaned up and deburred the control horns. Time for countersinking the holes.

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Countersunk the rivet holes in the control horns. Looks like the depth of the microstop countersink cage is set just right.

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Checked the depth of the countersink. I did a test fit with a loose rivet to make sure that the head was flat across the surface.

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Riveted the Control Horns on. I used a old paint roller inside the trim tab skins to hold it open so I could get to the rivets with my squeezer.

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Pop Riveted the Spar inside the trim tab skins. Getting closer...

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Cutting the trim tab hinges to size. This part was a little confusing, but I figured it out.

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Placed the drill guide over the hinges. The drill guide is a heavy duty guide to put the holes in the right places for the pop-rivets.

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Drilled all the holes in the hinge. I put blue tape over the holes that shouldn't be drilled.

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Ready to close things up. This is where everything gets riveted together.

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Done! Looking good!

Clecoed the ribs inside the trimtab skins

Small pieces and tight places to work.

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All the ribs are clecoed in place. Now for some final drilling.

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Final drilled the last hole in each rib. I had to be careful not to drill to far.

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Now to disassemble and deburr all the holes. Got to get rid of all the free floating pieces of metal!

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Time for pop-rivets! For the most part, I didn't have to pre-drill the holes at all.

Started work on the Anti-Servo Tab

This is the trim tab for the stabilator.

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Removed the tabs from the trim-tab skin. I used my tin snips to cut off the tab, but left some of it in place to do a final cleanup with file.

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Time for blue film therapy. Soldering iron with a rounded tip and a metal ruler.

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Exposed the rivet holes. Looks cool too...

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Heated up the blue film in side the skin. Seems to make it a little easier to pull off.

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Smoothed and sanded the edges with 320 Grit sandpaper.

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Here are the spars for both trim tabs. Ready for edge sanding.

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Next... Ribs! Little bitty dudes.

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Clecoed the spars inside the trim tab skin. Tight fit!

Started work on the Rudder skin

First, I have to remove this small tab.

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Time for the cut. I used my tin snips to cut off the tab, but left some of it in place to do a final cleanup with file.

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My favorite part - removing the blue stuff. This is very time consuming!

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Finally! The blue stuff is out!

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Now for some blue film therapy. A metal ruler and a soldering iron do the trick (and it looks cool...).

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Nice look! Protects the finish as well. BTW, I rounded off the tip of the soldering iron to make sure that all it does is melt the blue film and doesn't scratch the skin.

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Inserted the spar and ribs inside the skin. Now for some riveting!

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Cleco, cleco, cleco.... I'm going to need more of these...

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Time to rivet. These pop-rivets are so easy! Feels like cheating...

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Time to rivet on the Trim Tab. I assume this will need a little adjustment later when this dude starts flying.

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Thar' tis...... A thing of beauty!

Started work on the Rudder

Cut out the Spar Caps for the Spar.

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Started work on the Rudder. Cut out the Spar Caps for the Spar.

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Separated the Hinge Brackets. These will be riveted to the Main Spar of the Rudder.

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Smoothed the edges of the Hinge Brackets. This scotch-brite wheel is now on it's 2nd RV Aircraft!

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Smoothed the edges of the rudder main spar.

Now ready for attaching the spar caps and hinge brackets.

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Positioned the Spar Caps. The Hinge Brackets will go on top of these.

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Holes drilled! Ready for deburring.

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Time to fit the rudder horn. It will be riveted to the rudder spar.

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Final drilled the Rudder Horn to spar. Ready for riveting!

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Clecoed the spar caps and hinge bracket into place. Now for the ribs!

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Trail fit of the rudder spar to the vertical stabilizer. I used a tie wire to fish it in to place.

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A handy tool for holding tiny washer in tight places. These are available at Aircraft Spruce.